Te He Visto Pasar

In a strange twist of events, the Spring 2011 fashion show season began in Milan. Normally, Milan gives us the most commercial collections of the season, with very little editorial appeal.  There have always been exceptions to this rule, but this season, it feels as if the tables have turned.  Milan has given us so many collections that are pushing fashion to the next level.  


For me, the season really kicked off with the latest dreamy collection given to us by Prada.  In my eyes, Prada has consistently been one of those exceptions to the Milan rule.  Miuccia is constantly bringing new ideas to the table and pushing the rest of the pack forward.  This collection sparked a new trend for the season that many of the Milan pack have shown - a flair for Latin American Romanticism.  What amazed me the most about this collection was that there was still that minimal undertone that has dominated the fashion scene since Pheobe Philo's triumphant return at the house of Celine, but it was infused with amazing touches that helped push this collection to another level.  The silhouettes felt very simple, but were taken to the next level with the use of color, print, and pattern.  As simple as many of these pieces seemed, they were actually very masterful in their cut, giving a unique proportion through the chest into the sleeve.  This has been played around with for a couple of seasons now in many collections, but this was a consistent theme through this collection.  The use of color was outstanding here.  The injection of the monkey and banana prints was an unexpected surprise.  The fabrics had a very tribal and naive essence to them, as if they had been made by artisans in Cuba.  The return to the stark black minimalism that marked Prada's spot in the fashion world during the 90's also felt new again.  This collection was like a breathe of fresh air and many other collections in Milan picked up on the same scent.  

HIPSTERS ARE EVERYWHERE

Including Houston Texas.  And they took the liberty to make this music video for "Home" by LCD Soundsystem.  They even included yuppies in the video!!!



LCD Soundsystem "Home" from FUNWUNCE on Vimeo.

Shibori Shitshow

Sorry, I couldn't help it!  That is in memory of two of my greatest friends, Jim and Laurie, who I love dearly.  Shibori became an "it" word in our previous jobs and they were forced to create garments using this Japanese dying technique.  The result became known as the Shibori Shitshow.

That being said, Proenza Schouler used this same dying technique throughout their latest Spring 2011 collection with amazing results.  Jack and Lazaro have been watched by the fashion industry since their Parsons graduation collection shown in 2002.  They were immediately picked up by Barneys and the rest is history.  I have been a fan of their work for as long as I can remember.  That's not to say that they haven't had some misses in the past.  The boys have been back on their game since their lackluster collection of Spring 2009.  In my opinion, this was the strongest collection to date for the brand.  It had such a strong point of view, covered the trends of the season, but interpreted them in an unexpected way.  The color was unexpected, given the dominance of neutral in NY this season.  There was such an amazing amount of detail in everything that came down the runway, from the shibori dying to the embroidery as lace.  It was refreshing, spoke to the trends of the season, while continuing to speak to the PS girl.  Outstanding.

THERE'S NO BLACK IN THE COLLECTION

That was one of Wang's first comments to any editor reviewing the board before the show.  It came to a shock to many that the king of IT girl fashion would have no black in his latest collection.  Many editors are wondering if his loyal fans will continue to be loyal.  I say YES!  Here's a couple of reasons why - 


1 - It's fashion, people!  If he had sent another sea of body con black dresses down the runway, he would have been panned for not being innovative enough.  Why the double standard, all of a sudden?
2 - The tide has changed.  The age of over the top opulence has passed and people are looking for a palette cleanser.  All the things that were once loved will now be hated by the consumer.  They will be drawn to that which is unexpected.  The numbers don't lie, people!  Fall started off as another season of fur, heavy embellishment, and expensive fabric, and retail is having a VERY tough 3rd quarter!
3 - Wallets around the world are the smallest they've ever been.  The need to don new duds every season is wearing thin, so girls are holding on to those pieces that they loved so much from seasons passed.  What girl wouldn't hold on to her old Wang?!?  As a result, why would she buy more Wang this season if it looks just like what she has in her closet?


Beyond my rants as a person that works on the business side of fashion, the reality is, this collection hit every trend that will be important for this season.  WHITE will be the color of the season.  Anything that isn't white will be a beautiful pastel.  Embellishment is back to a minimal state of being. Proportion is oh so important and it's not about being skin tight any more.  Playing with transparency is still important.  Overall, I still count this as a success. 

CITY OF GOD

Short film by Alejandro Jodorowsky for V Magazine.


CITY OF GOD from V Magazine on Vimeo.

Virgencita