YSL is Dat Chu?

Tomas Maier has been at the helm of Bottega Veneta for almost 10 years now and has really expanded the brand beyond a luxury leather goods house.  His collections have always had a connection to Italian Romanticism, conjuring up memories of the days of Fellini and Antonioni films.  I was surprised to see what came down the runway for this season. I almost thought I was watching a collection from Stefano Pilati for YSL!  Normally, his collections have a subdued sexuality that runs through them, but this collection was very overt.  These girls were not hiding what their intentions were and were proud of that fact.  The color and mood were both much darker than what I normally expect to see from Bottega.  This was a very bold and courageous move for Tomas.  It brings a whole new dimension to the Bottega Veneta brand! 

Marc Jacobs Fall 2010

His collections are always something that I watch out for because they are a spectacle.  For the past couple of years, there has been so much inspiration that goes into each collection, that it becomes difficult to really understand where they come from.  This collection was a huge departure from that mentality.  There was a focus that I haven't seen from Marc in YEARS.  He even decided to strip down the normally elaborate staging of his shows to really focus on the clothes.  There weren't even any big name models walking the runway!  This was Marc at his most refined and elegant.  There weren't any looks that tried too hard or had too much going on.  The collection was also very romantic and nostalgic.  It was a perfect blend of the worlds that Marc normally connects together in an unexpected way.  This collection was just beautiful, and there's no other single word to describe it!

Proenza Schouler Fall 2010

I've ranted and raved about this New York design duo for sometime now.  Normally, they approach each season with a new eye, bringing a new dimension to their brand.  This season, they really tied in many elements that are associated with Proenza Schouler.  They mixed in many of the body-con elements that they are known for with the oversized outerwear that has become a signature for their fall collections.  The color palette was minimal, while adding in an extension of the prints that were shown in their last collection.  It was a refreshing take on Fall, but still stayed true to Proenza Schouler.  My only issue with the collection is that it was woven heavy.  In a season where knits have become so important, it would have been nice to see their take on this trend.  Aside from that, the collection was really great!  I also know many girls that would go into Gladiator battle for a pair of those shoes!

Rodarte Fall 2010

The Mulleavy sisters approach fashion from a different place than any other American designers.  They really come at each collection from an artistic point of view, both defying and creating trend. I admit - my love for Rodarte won't allow me to see any error in their work.  To me, they are true artisans and have helped propel fashion into another place.  In viewing their work, you get a feeling that they are not creating collections with the thought of commercial success looming in the back of their minds, which is something few designers do these days.  This collection was no exception in my mind.  They were inspired by the female maquiladora workers crossing the borders to get to work in Ciudad Juarez in the middle of the night.  Many of these women were murdered.  To me, the collection is a reflection of the ghosts of these women, wandering the night trying to find solace in their unneccesary deaths.  My Latin American upbringing can be blamed for this conclusion!  Either way, this collection managed to continue the artistic vision behind Rodarte while being more commercial than most collections they've produced.  It was a subdued version of Rodarte, mixing in many of the trends that are present in other collections while maintaining the Rodarte identity.  It was definitely one of my favorites of New York Fashion Week!

HUNX AND HIS PUNX

OMG I just discovered this band and I love them.  I love this song too, even though it does rip off the opening riff from New Order's amazing "Age of Consent".  That is made up for with the video.  I want to be in this band.

Erdem Fall 2010

In my eyes, Erdem Moralioglu is a hopeless romantic.  There is a quality to his collections that reminds me of the way things used to be;  they harken back to the ultra feminine and romantic collections of the 50's.  At the same time, his collections remain very modern.  The level of tailoring, paired with the incredible use of color and print, keep him in a realm of his own.  I've been impressed with his work since he began his collection in 2005.  That being said, the Fall 2010 collection left me feeling like Erdem wasn't walking to the beat of their own drum.  Throughout this period where the major influences have been dark romanticism and 80's glam dressing, Erdem stuck to their guns and showed effervescent collections that showed me a different side to fashion.  Now, when the trends are beginning to shift a bit, Erdem decides to show a romantic and dark collection.  This collection actually felt like a reminder of the days of Olivier Theyskens at Rochas.  Regardless of this concern, the collection was still very beautiful.  The color and print was amazing, as expected.  The use of print as applique, which has become an Erdem signature, was gorgeous.  I love the addition of leather into the mix, as well as the printed patchwork pieces.  Overall, I still have to give this collection the thumbs up!  It still feels true to the Erdem brand.

Alexander Wang Fall 2010

So, New York Fashion Week Fall 2010 has come to a close now.  What a season!  There have really been some winners this time around.  I'm glad to see that designers are starting to break away from playing it safe and taking some risk!

So, as has been the case with the last couple of fashion weeks, I'm going to post about my favorite collections!  Alexander Wang has really become a force in American fashion.  His ability to take trends and ideas and turn them backwards and inside out has garnered him a following of fashion critics and savants.  Of course, you can't forget that buyers love him and so do those fashion fanatics who are snapping up all the Wang they can get their hands on!

This season, Alexander took the idea of women's power suiting and delicate evening fabrics and reinterpreted it into a wonderful mix of spliced up suiting and velvet pieces for day.  There was also a good dose of leather in the mix, as well as wonderful menswear fabric backpacks.  It is an idea that moves is collection forward into another relm, but yet the ideas of what his collection stands for are still there.  It was really amazing to see this collection walk down the runway and to notice that instantly.  This is what will keep Alexander Wang at the forefront of American fashion.

P.S. - I NEED ONE OF THOSE MENSWEAR FABRIC BACKPACKS WITH CHIFFON DRAWSTRINGS!!!!